Choosing a location: When installing
your furnace, keep in mind the direction of the winds
during heating months. Try to place the furnace in an
area where smoke will not be a problem for yourself or
you surrounding neighbors. Also keep in mind that you will
want an easy access to your furnace to feed and stock
Placing the furnace: Under normal
conditions four cement blocks are all that is required
to support the furnace. Blocks should be at least 6
inches wide, 10 inches long, and 4 inches thick. Under
very soft conditions a larger concrete blocks may be needed.
For model 4400 the pad should be no less then 5 feet
wide, 6 feet long, and 4 to 6 inches thick. For the
model 5500 no less than 6 feet wide, 7 feet long, and
4 to 6 inches thick. Always use a non-combustible
Remember call before you dig!!!
The Trench: The trench should be 24
inches deep and 6 to 12 inches wide. It can be dug
with a shovel or a backhoe. Place all the dirt to one
side of the trench to allow room for working on the
Place electric supply in the bottom of the trench
and cover with dirt. Electrical wire rated for
underground use (14-2 +ground) can be buried in the
same trench as the water lines but must maintain a
minimum 24 inch depth. Always follow state and local
The remaining 18 inches of the open trench is where
the water lines are placed. Use a one inch water line
with a minimum rating of 100 psi at 180 degrees (Pex
Line) and insure that your water line insulation
has a minimum R-value of eight in order to maintain
adequate heating efficiency.
Use only materials purchased through the CT Wood
Furnace. If you use poor insulation for your
underground insulation you will burn a lot more wood.
Trying to save a couple dollars here: This is
not the place to do it!
quote to think about:
"If you don't have time to do it right the first
time when are you going to find the time to do it
the second time"?
the pump: Attach the 1" X 2" black
nipple (BN001) and one half of the flanges from the 1'
cast iron pump flange kit (PF001) to one of the hot
water supply valves on the back of furnace. All the
material to do this comes in a kit FK00
one of the black rubber gaskets, and placing it
between the pump and the mounted flange, bolt the pump
to the flange. Make sure the arrow on the pump
indicating direction of the water flow points down.
up the water lines: Hot water supply 1"
Pex x 1" MIP (DP002) fitting to flange on the
bottom of the pump. Then attach the hot water supply
1" pex water line (DP001) to the fitting using
1" pex crimp ring (DP007).
water return: Attach the 1" pex x 1"
MIP (DP002) fitting to the cold water return valve on
the same side of the stove on which the pump was
attached. Then attach the cold water return 1"
pex water line (DP001) to the fitting using 1"
pex crimp ring (DP007).
the Pump: Remove the cover on the pump. Then
using an approved wire, connect the ground wire to the
green ground screw on the pump. Finally, connect the
remaining two white wires together and replace the
junction box on back of unit and remove the cover.
Connect the running end of the approved wire coming
from the pump to the junction.
The wires from the pump will have to be connected with
the main power wires in the junction box along with
the power wires from the ETC system.
Home: Entering the building with the water
lines can be done underground or over the sill plate.
Once inside the building the typical hookup would run
first to the domestic hot water supply and next to an
existing heating system such as forced air furnace or
to a hot water heating system (boiler). Finally before
leaving the building a fill valve must be installed
near enough to the homes water supply for filling and
flushing the boiler at the end or beginning of the
Hot Water: The domestic hot water/ flatplate
kit consists of a water to water heat transfer unit
and the fittings needed to hook it up. The unit goes
on the top of the domestic hot water heater and is
connected as shown below.
forced air: A water to air heat exchanger is
inserted in the existing plenum. In most cases the
heat exchanger is placed in a horizontal position,
keeping al four sides level. The air must be forced
through the finned area of the heat exchanger evenly.
The hot water line coming from the hot-water tube
enters the bottom fitting of the heat exchanger and
exits the top fitting, which returns to the furnace.
If the plenum is too large or to small, it must be
altered to fit the heat exchanger properly.
The water to air exchanger must be installed below
any existing off peak electric coils already in
installation of a water to air heat exchanger in the
plenum the fan speed of the existing furnace needs to
be increased to compensate for the water to air heat
Hot Water Heat (Boiler): This is the easiest
of all the setups. All we have to do with a boiler is
to add a water to water plate exchanger to the
existing boilers loop and keep the loop circulating.
Which fools the existing boiler to think it is always
at temp and it doesn't turn on.
with water: Connect your domestic water to the
return line to the furnace using a ball valve. This
makes it much easier to fill and flush the unit. start
filling the unit inspect for leaks. Make sure the ball
valves on the unit are open to the return and supply.
Once the green light on the control panel goes on
your full. Or if is simple over flows. Don't worry
this is not a problem.
the unit: Routinely pay attention to the water
level light. If light is not lit, this indicates water
level is low and the furnace may need to have water
added. Add water until it over flows the vent pipe on
top of unit. Not a bad idea to check to make sure the
light is working properly. Open ball valve in back to
see if light goes out or check the over flow pipe with
flash light. The circulation pump will be very helpful
in bleeding the air out. It can take several minutes
to do this.
your Ash Auger: (This is an option)
ash auger is very simple to install. As seen in
picture (left) place cork screw portion in first then
insert long cork screw through the auger hole. (middle
Picture) Mount auger cover and handel. and finally
place cover on the auger assembly. Caution watch
your back this is heavy steal!
the Unit: Once you have determined that there
are no leaks and all looks good. Paper and kindling
should be used for starting the fire. Build a small
fire, and add wood as needed. Be sure pumps are
circulating when firing the furnace. You might notice
some water on the inside walls of the unit, this is
normal the furnace is sweating like a cold drink on a
summer day. Once the furnace has reached 180 degrees,
the furnace is ready to be filled to capacity. I
recommend burning cut, split, seasoned wood. Do not
overfill the unit so hot coals fall out when opening
the door. The best is a well controlled fire and when
the wood get low, rake the ashes exposing buried
unburned coals. You will be surprised those coals will
heat your home all day and then some.
Do Not Burn garbage, rubber, gasoline, or any oil
products. Do not use chemicals or oil products to
removal, rotation and disposal: Maintain a
good ash rotation. This should be done weekly. Remove
ashes when the furnace is very low on wood. If your
furnace is not equipped with an ash auger system use a
shovel to take ashes from the front of the firebox and
use a rake to pull ashes from rear of the furnace to
create a level bed of hot coals. Tip Ashes are great
for the garden. Ashes should be placed in a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed
container of ashes should be placed on a
noncombustible floor or the ground, well away from all
combustible materials, pending final disposal. Ashes
should be retained in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled. At least 48 hours.
(coals can live for a week or so) Keep this in mind
when disposing ash and coals. Forrest fires!
information and need for removal: When wood is
burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic
vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form
creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively
cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. The
chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at
least monthly during the heating season to determine
if a creosote build up has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of
a chimney fire.
you would like more details feel free to contact us at
(203) 881-1602 Jeff or Claudia